Lugu Lake is the home of the Mosuo people and also the location of the "Kingdom of Women." For three days and two nights, between the lake's light and the Walking Marriage Bridge, I encountered the calm matriarchal clan.

The Rige Peninsula stretches into the center of the lake, surrounded by water on three sides, making it the best spot for viewing the lake. In the early morning, mist rises over the lake, and the small white poplar flowers of the water-like poplar float in the blue, as quiet as an undried watercolor.

The Walking Marriage Bridge spanning Caohai is a testament to the Mosuo "walking marriage" custom. The wooden boardwalk twists and turns, with reeds swaying on both banks; walking up, you can almost hear the footsteps of young people walking at night a hundred years ago.

Visiting a Mosuo family at home, listening to grandmother tell family stories by the hearth. Here, women are the main focus, with property and bloodline passed down through the matriarchy, creating an order completely different from modern times and prompting a rethink of the definition of "home."

In the evening, I rented a pig-trough boat to row toward the center of the lake, the sound of oars echoing, and waterfowl flying low. On the opposite bank, Goddess Mountain on the Sichuan side had a gentle silhouette in the sunset, and the lake breeze gradually dispersed my worries.

The gentleness of Lugu is another possibility of civilization. When you listen to grandmother by the hearth and suddenly lose track of time, you will understand: happiness may not have only one template.

Route fragment

3 days and 2 nights

  1. Day 1: Depart from Lijiang, Lige Peninsula
  2. Day 2: Walking the Wedding Bridge and Home Visits
  3. Day 3: Pig trough boat, return trip