Lisbon: Trams and the warm sun of the Atlantic

Lisbon is the westernmost old town on the European continent. Five days and four nights, from the jingle of tram line 28 to the sea breeze at Belém Tower, soaking Portugal's laziness into a glass of Port wine amid colorful hillsides and Fado songs.

Riding tram line 28 is the best way to get to know Lisbon. Yellow wooden carriages climb the steep slopes of Alfama, flanked by faded blue-and-white tiles (azulejo) walls, like stepping into an old movie.

The Belém Tower and Jerónimos Monastery are monuments of the Age of Discovery. Back then, da Gama set out from here, and the monastery's stone carvings were as intricate as ocean waves. Next door, the Belém egg tart shop has had a long queue for a century. Freshly baked egg tarts sprinkled with powdered sugar and cinnamon, symbolizing Portuguese flavor.

Getting lost is most enchanting in Alfama. This old town is built against the hills, with winding alleys, clotheslines stretching overhead, and elderly people peeling beans at the door. At night, Fado plays in taverns, its mournful melody the "Song of Fate."

Climb to Castel San Jorge or the Commercial Plaza to watch the sunset, where the Teljo River bathes your feet in golden hues. On the opposite bank, the Christ statue stands with arms outstretched, echoing the statue in Rio and echoing the Portuguese colonial era.

Lisbon's warmth is the calmness at the end of the Atlantic. When you gnaw on egg tarts and watch the tram climb the hillside, you suddenly envy the ability to turn your days into afternoon tea.