Erhai Lake is not a "tourist attraction," but a rhythm. Huanhai West Road is flat and has few cars, with wetlands, Bai villages, and cafés opening up along the way.
Four days and three nights, unhurried and unhurried, just enough for you to ride the "wind, flowers, snow, and moon" into your heart.
The first thing I did in Dali was to rent an electric-assist bicycle in the ancient city. Don't rush the road; first go to the Beimen vegetable market for a bowl of steaming braised pork rice noodles, watching locals carry freshly bought flowers and vegetables across the stone street. Here, the time stretches long from early morning.
Huanhai West Road is the most recommended cycling section. The road surface is smooth and there are few vehicles; on the left is the silhouette of the Nineteen Peaks of Cangshan, and on the right is the shimmering light reflected by Erhai Lake. Passing by Caicun Wetland, you stop to watch waterfowl skim over the reeds, and the distant clouds hang so low they seem almost within reach.
On the third day, it is recommended to stay in Shuanglang. The old fishing village here has become a gathering place for artists and travelers, and the coastal guesthouse terraces face the sunset over Cangshan. In the evening, sitting by Erhai Lake, ordering a cup of Yunnan Xiaoli Coffee, watching the sunset dye the water orange-red, you truly understand the significance of the phrase "slow time."
At the end of your cycling, you can detour to Xizhou Ancient Town. Compared to Dali Old City, Xizhou is quieter, with Bai ethnic homes' screen walls and tie-dye workshops preserving their old appearance. Be sure to try a freshly baked Xizhou crispy rice cake—both savory and sweet, crispy on the outside and glutinous inside, making it the best reward for cycling.
What Erhai teaches people is not how many viewing platforms you visit, but that you can peacefully spend an entire afternoon on the road. When you stop staring at the destination, the wind, clouds, water, and strangers along the way all become part of the journey.
Route fragment
4 days and 3 nights
- Day 1: Rent a car in Dali Ancient Town, visit Beimen Vegetable Market and Renmin Road
- Day 2 Cycling along West Coastal Road: Caicun Wetland → Panxi S Bend
- Day 3: Continue around the sea to Shuanglang, sunset by the sea, and dinner
- Day 4: Half a day in Xizhou Ancient Town, return trip
