Dali

In depth

<p> rent a bike early in the morning to circle Erhai Lake, from Caicun to Shuanglang, the lake shimmering all the way, with Bai fishing villages scattered along the shore. Climbing the Jade Belt Road on Cangshan, the entire Erhai Lake looks like a piece of jade. </p><p> Renmin Road in Dali Ancient Town comes alive at dusk: the aromas of tie-dye shops, folk bars, and roasted milk fans intertwine. Visit Xizhou to see the Bai residences' screen walls and rice fields, or visit Jizhao Nunnery for a bowl of vegetarian meals—Dali's slowness makes you forget time </p>